Category Archives: How to Clean My Pool Myself

How to Maintain a Swimming Pool

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How to Maintain a Swimming Pool

If you’re searching for instruction on pool maintenance for the average person, then you’ve come to the right place. This beginners’ guide will provide you specific directions for saltwater and above ground level pool maintenance…

Whenever any of us has thought about getting a swimming in our backyard, the first thing that comes to mind is the amount of maintenance. Which is why, if you have a swimming pool or have recently installed one, do make sure to place a cover on top. Whenever the pool is not in use, this technique will save you a lot of time, energy, and money.

Although it may seem difficult, cleaning and maintaining a swimming pool is simple when you have the right tools and guidance. If you have a saltwater (below ground) or an above ground level swimming pool, the following article will give you instructions about the maintenance procedure.

Let’s take a look at basic saltwater swimming pool maintenance.

Your Swimming Pool
Where freshwater pools have chlorinated water, saltwater pools have saline water present in it. Both these pools need the same standard of maintenance and care, with only few minor variations. You always have to keep in mind that while maintaining a pool, any kind of pool, the steps need to be followed religiously. The first step of this swimming pool maintenance guide is understanding the water level. What this means is, you need to decide exactly how much water does your swimming pool need and can hold. Because when you make this calculation, we can estimate the measure of salt added into the pool. The exact ratio of water to salt is set as, 1 million part water to 3,000 parts salt concentration.

With this measurement, you can barely even get the salty taste in the pool. This way, you can easily enjoy the saltwater pool without having to subject yourself to burning and itchy eyes. On the other hand, you will have to make sure that you get this ratio correct because if salt drops in the swimming pool, the production of chlorine will stop, and the growth of bacteria will begin. In order to avoid this situation, you need to test the water (on regular intervals) and make sure that the salinity of the water is at the correct level. You can read more about saltwater pool chlorinators for swimming pool maintenance for any additional information. Also, there are salt testing kits available in local pool shops that will help you check the salt level.

Proper Maintenance
As we discussed earlier, the ratio of water to salt needs to be correct at all times. You can also add 2,500 to 3,000 parts per million (salt to water) to keep this ratio accurate. Try not to go over or under this figure. The reason for this is, the measurements have been perfected and any alteration, on any part, will affect the pH balance of your swimming pool. Now, you may be concerned if the saline water would actually taste salty or not. The answer to that is – No; you would barely even notice the taste of salt in the pool. However, if the taste is strong, use the salt testing kit immediately. You can also install a saline water indicator in your swimming pool. This indicator will read out the measurement inside the pool. Whenever the level of salt increases, turn the knob on the indicator which will decide exactly how much chlorine is inside the swimming pool. This will also help to increase the chlorine level and keep up a balance in the swimming pool.

Most of the types of swimming pools are constructed in open, it is obvious that it will have to face the issue of dead leaves, bird droppings, insects, pollens, granules, and many such things. These things can be easily removed with the help of a skimmer basket. You can clear up the debris on the surface of the water. You can use tile cleansing agents to clean the pool tiles. Also, if the water stays for a long time at one place there is a growth of water plants which can decay in the water and the most commonly grown plant is swimming pool algae. To get rid of them and to restrict their growth, you need to treat your pool with algaecide every week. Apart from maintaining the pH balance, using algaecide, and removing dirt and debris out of the pool, you need to empty the water and clean the pool manually. Brush the entire swimming pool so that all the dirt comes out of the walls and tiles of the pool. Then with the help of a vacuum cleaner, clean the entire pool properly.

Important Troubleshooting Instructions
Always check the salt readings in your saline water indicator. This can be your either daily or weekly chore. If anybody enters the pool and complains about burning eyes, uncomfortable skin sensations, and/or high chlorine scent, immediately check the chlorine levels of the pool. DO NOT take these signs lightly. Usually, high chlorine scent indicates that the chlorine level is very low (not because it is too high). You need to check the pH of the swimming pool (buy a pH testing kit) to make sure the readings are correct or not; for saltwater pools, the pH level should be maintained between 7.2 and 7.8 only. Have everyone in the house and guests, who use the pool, know these readings so that there are no complications. If you find any variances but the indicator’s control knob says everything is alright, you may have to check if the control panel is working correctly or not.

Two weeks after adding chlorine to water, the remnants of the interaction between chlorine and the pool waste can be removed by a process known as ‘oxidation’ or ‘shocking’ . The by-products of chlorine, called chloramines, are produced when an insufficient amount of chlorine is used to disinfect the pool. The filthy odor which people mistake for chlorine is not of pure chlorine, but of the chloramines. The unpleasant odor can be countered through ‘super-chlorination’ of the swimming pool with a dose of 10ppm (part per million) of calcium hypochlorite or ‘cal-hypo’ or ‘bleaching powder’, every two weeks in summer and every week in winter. During winters, swimming pools are hardly used, so it’s important to cover the pool properly, particularly in areas where the mercury level drops to zero or below. There are various kinds of heavy-duty pool covers that can be operated manually, semi-manually, or automatically. When the winter season ends, the covers can be removed, and after proper sanitization and ensuring that the pumps and filters, or even the ‘saltwater chlorinator’ is functioning properly, you can enjoy your swimming pool for yet another summer.

Above Ground Pool Maintenance

Apart from the saltwater (underground) swimming pools, above ground pools are also common these days. As there can be limited space in your backyard, a smaller, more compact pool can be installed. Above ground pool deck ideas and plans are an excellent addition to any home for outdoor entertainment during summers. Although upholding the above ground pool can be a challenge for many, it is not impossible. If you keep pushing the task for a longer time, it will only be more difficult for you. So, let’s not waste anymore time and take a look at the basic above ground swimming pool maintenance instructions.

Your Swimming Pool – Pump & Filter
The most important part of above ground pool maintenance is the pool’s pump. The reason is it cleans any/all debris out of the pool as it circulates the water through its attached filter. Circulating the water inside the pool helps prevent bacteria growth. During summers or when the pool is being used, keep the pump running for at least 8 to 10 hours each day for optimal performance. In addition to that, you have to clean the filter as well. They need to be backwashed and the cartridge filter needs to be changed as well when they get dirty. Most of the above ground pools have small cartridge filters that don’t do an accurate job. In such a case, the best way is to see if you can get a bigger sand filter and pump for your pool.

Pool Chemicals
pH level of the pool water has to be checked at least once a week to make sure that this level is maintained between 7.2 and 7.6 only. Again, these readings have to be perfected. If the pool water is anywhere outside the range, under or over, the chemicals in the pool won’t be much effective. As you use the pool on a daily basis, contaminants get added to the water. To oxidize any contaminants which can be present in the water, “pool shock” has been used to free the chlorine in the swimming pool and keep the water clean. Along with contaminants, pool shock also kills algae. Maintain the range of 10 ppm chlorine in the pool and buy test strips to measure chlorine and alkalinity of the pool water. For every 10,000 gallons of pool water, you need to add 1 bag of shock each week. You can either write down the measurements in some place or be responsible to take care of the measurements yourself.

Proper Maintenance Instructions
Each time the pool is being shocked, you have to use the vacuum and run the filter for about 8 hours a day. If you notice that the appearance of pool water seems slightly cloudy, run the filter continuously till the water is clear. Add algaecide, once a week, to make sure no algae growth takes place. As a weekly cleaning task, you will have to scrub all the sides of the pool and make sure that whoever enters the pool has clean feet. Don’t drain the pool as it will dry the liner as well, otherwise you may have to replace the liner altogether.

These were some instructions on pool maintenance for dummies. Regular maintenance will extend the life of your swimming pool considerably. This way, you won’t have to spend a lot on unnecessary maintenance done by a professional. Preserving a clean and healthy swimming pool for you and your family requires few simple responsibilities.
Read more at: http://www.cleanmypoolmyself.com

How to Open up your Pool for the Summer

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The first thing we need to do is “SUMMERIZE” your pool so it’s time to gather up your pool toys, call your friends and family, and get the grill ready cause it’s a change of the season!

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1. Remove all leaves and water from your cover. Remember to always fill the pool at the same time you pump off the top not after you’ve pumped it off. Rinse off or sweep the cover while it is still on the pool. Carefully fanfold it back and remove it. Some of you may want to spread the cover out on the driveway, not the lawn, and further clean it and let it dry. Empty the water tubes, roll all good tubes, fold all tubes with only one good chamber, and throw away all bad tubes. If you have a Loop Loc safety cover, cleaning the cover is easy, simply sweep it off, remove, and store in storage bag. Loop Loc anchor inserts should be removed from deck and rinsed clean with water as well as the anchor in the deck then put back and screwed down flush. All covers should be stored safe from mice and ants with expensive appetites!

2. Remove all plugs from return lines, skimmers, and Leaf Trappers.

3. Reinstall eyeball fittings into returns, skimmer diverters into skimmers, grates into low water suction lines, etc. as necessary for your pool.

4. Reinstall all pool accessories such as diving boards, ladders, and rails, etc.

5. If you have an automatic chlorinator, make sure all drain plugs are in place, fill with Powersticks or a New Water Cycler, lubricate the cover O-ring with dish soap, and cover . Set dial to normal level as you will be adding Liquid Shock Treatment to super chlorinate.

6. If you have a floor circulation or cleaning system, remove plugs from the water valve base and reassemble the head lubricating all O-ring. Make sure the screen is clear and in place on the top union.

7a. Sta-rite Modular Media Filter – Reinstall plugs in pump housing, hose out bottom of filter tank if needed, put drain plug back on bottom of tank or close ball valve, reinstall filter cartridges, and close tank with tank O-ring properly in place (no lube necessary as Sta-rite uses self-lubricating O-rings). Prime the pump and start. If you have a mesh cover that left you with a pool full of algae and fine dirt particles, add 10lbs of DE Powder to the skimmer which will coat the cartridges and help expedite the cleaning process.

7b. DE Vertical Grid Filter – Reinstall plugs in pump housing, hose out bottom of filter tank if needed, put drain plug back on bottom of tank or close ball valve, place sight glass and pressure gauge back on multiport. Place filter tank on base and attach to pump return and waste line. Make sure there is no DE on tank O-ring when reassembling tank. Prime pump, start, and immediately charge with DE Powder.

7c. DE Perflex Filter – Reinstall plugs in pump housing. Place filter tank on base and attach to pump return and waste line. Make sure there is no DE on tank O-ring when reassembling tank. Prime pump, start, and immediately charge with DE Powder.

7d. Sand Filter – Reinstall plugs in pump housing, put drain cap back on filter tank, place sight glass and pressure gauge back on multiport. Prime pump and start on “backwash” position. After backwashing, return to “filter” position.

8. Super chlorinate pool with Family Pools’ Liquid Shock Treatment, one gallon per 10,000 gal. or double if pool is dirty. It is best if leaves are removed prior to super chlorination or soon after. Gunite pool owners are advised to balance the water prior to chlorinating in case of minerals in the water and advised to use a precautionary mineral treatment to prevent staining such as Family Pools’ Metal Muscle, one quart per 20,000 gal.

THAT’S IT! 

Pool Knowledge: Know What Chemicals to Use and When

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Sanitizers

When to use Sanitizers
Sanitizers are used to keep water clear of bacteria and inhibit/control the growth of viruses, algae and organic contaminants.  The two most common pool water sanitizers are chlorine and bromine.  

Choose the one that’s best for you

Chlorine is a disinfectant and the most popular sanitizer used in pool water.  Chlorine levels are determined with a test kit and measured in parts per million (ppm).  The ideal chlorine residual (chlorine residual refers the the chlorine remaining after all reactions and dissipation have occurred) in pool water should be between 1.0 and 3.0 ppm.

Bromine is an alternative sanitizer to chlorine.  Bromine levels are measured using a test kit.  The ideal Bromine residual is 3.0 ppm.  Bromine is not as harsh on skin, eyes, hair and swim wear as chlorine, and does not produce a chlorine odor.  Bromine is slower dissolving and is more effective than chlorine in hot water.

We recommend sanitizing with stabilized 3″ chlorinating tabs, 1″ chlorinating tabs, skimmer sticks or 1″ bromine tabs. These can be conveniently dispensed by placing them in a chlorinator, floating feeder, or skimmer basket.  If you prefer to sanitize by pouring directly into the water, then Di-Chlor Chlorinating Granules is a good choice.  During pool start-up you may need an extra does of chlorine or bromine in order to satisfy the initial demand of the water.  Use your test kit often to check your chemical levels and adjust your dispenser as needed to increase or decrease the flow.  Factors that affect the amount of sanitizer you need are temperature, pool usage, rainfall and pH.  Higher water temperatures, heavy pool usage and heavy rainfall all result in the necessity for increased chlorine or Bromine.

Balancers

When to use Balancers Image

Balancers are used with sanitizers to help prevent algae growth and cloudy water, maximizing the performance of chlorine.  Quick and simple testing before problems arise can prolong your pool’s life and provide you season after season of enjoyment.

Maintaining proper levels

PH Level is the acid/base content of water.  The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral.  Ideally you should strive to maintain pH levels between 7.2 and 7.6 in order to prevent eye/skin irritation, pool surface and equipment damage.

Total Alkalinity is the measure of certain minerals in the water.  These minerals act as buffering agents and allow you to readily control your pH.  In plaster pools, under normal conditions, a measurement of 100 to 150ppm is ideal.  In painted, vinyl or fiberglass pools, a reading between 125 to 175ppm should be maintained.

Calcium Hardness measures the level of calcium and magnesium minerals in the water.  These minerals exist naturally in all water, but levels vary greatly across the country.  An acceptable hardness level is from 225 to 300ppm hardness for plaster pools and 175 to 250 ppm for vinyl, painted and fiberglass pools.  Low levels of calcium create corrosive water which can damage equipment.  Raise hardness levels by using calcium boosters. Lower hardness levels by using calcium hardness reducers.

Stabilizer is a chemical that prevents the UV rays of the sun from prematurely dissipating the chlorine level. It is important to test your stabilizer level because stabilizer stays in your water indefinitely.  If stabilizer was added in the past, you generically just add it based on the gallons of water added this season.  Too much stabilizer can cause cloudy water.

Shocks

When to use Shocks

Use shock to quickly raise the chlorine level in your pool.  Various bacteria and organic pollutants can resist normal chlorination and result in contaminated and cloudy water.  This build-up is highest during hot weather and periods of heavy pool usage.  Weekly treatments with shock will break up these contaminants.  It is best to apply shock in the evening so it can work overnight and be down to normal levels by the next day.  Be sure your filter continues to run during this time.

Algaecides

When to use algaecides
Algaecides are used to prevent algae growth and kill existing algae that survive general chlorine dosages.  Algae is an aquatic plant that grows rapidly in pool water when a combination of warm water and lack of chlorine or other sanitizing agents exist.  The most common types of pool water algae are green, pink, black and mustard.  Initial signs of algae growth are slipperiness on pool surface, green or cloudy water, and spots on pool walls or floor.

Enzymes

When to use Enzymes
Enzymes are the all-natural way to clean up the body oil and lotion that can cloud your pool water and leave a ring of scum around your pool.  Adding enzymes such as Nature’s Magic to your pool water once a week prevents oil and scum build-up.  Enzymes also linger in the filter, keeping it clean.

Understanding Enzymes
In the human body, enzymes help us digest food and eliminate toxins.  That’s why doctors recommend enzyme rich foods such as yogurt, figs, and bananas.

Your pool water is a fertile environment for living organic matter. Enzymes break down that organic material into their base components and consume the residue.  What they are most effective at is destroying oils, fats, detergents, dirt, pollen, and all other sorts of organic material.  Since enzymes are used to clean up oil spills, you know they will work on the small amount of oils that produce scum in your pool.  Enzymes are also effective in preventing foaming in pools and spas.

Stain removers

When to use stain removers
Stain Removers are used to remedy stains, scale, discoloration and cloudy water caused by metals coming out of a solution (precipitation) in the water.

Scale is when the precipitated metals form hard, white deposits on pool walls and equipment.

Stain is when the precipitated metals have color and are deposited on the pool walls or floor.  Precipitated metals may also remain in the water causing cloudiness and discoloration.  To remedy this condition, a sequestering agent is required.  This will help your filter remove precipitated metals.

Clarifiers

When to use Clarifiers
Clarifiers are used to remove particles from the pool that are too small to be caught in the filter system, causing cloudy water. Flocculents or clarifying agents will cause these particles to cling to each other, making them larger, so they can be removed from your water through vacuuming or filtration.

For the A-Z Guide on maintaining your pool in 10 min a week for less than $15 a month click here. 

12 Common Swimming Pool Maintenance Mistakes

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Cleaning a pool and a few things to avoid Mistakes of Pool Owners

  1. Not checking your pool’s chemistry often enough. Check the pool’s chemistry twice per week in the summer and once per week in the winter. By doing this you can make minor adjustments to your water chemistry instead of big adjustments that create a wild up and down graph of activity.
  2. Allowing pH to get above 8.0. At 8.5 chlorine is only 10% active. At 7.0 it is about 73% active. By just maintaining pH around 7.5 the chlorine is 50-60% active. Keeping the pH in check will allow you to use to the full potential the chlorine that is already in the pool.
  3. Not keeping alkalinity between 80-140 PPM. Low or high alkalinity can affect water balance and ultimately a sanitizer’s ability to perform.
  4. Not checking TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or calcium hardness on a regular basis. Check TDS every 6 months and calcium hardness every month. These also affect water balance which is different from sanitation, although related.
  5. Not cleaning the cells in salt water systems (chlorine generators). Corroded or calcified cells will produce little chlorine.
  6. Backwashing sand or DE filters too often. If you do this, the filter can never reach its cleaning potential. If you backwash on a regular basis for no reason, you are wasting water. Most filters require backwashing when the pressure gauge rises 8-10 PSI from clean.
  7. Not cleaning the skimmer basket and/or hair and lint pot in the pool pump often enough. If these are full of debris you will get little flow resulting in poor circulation, potentially creating a big problem.
  8. Adding chemicals, especially liquid chlorine, during the day. Try to add chemicals in the evening after the sun has set. You will get more out of them.
  9. Not brushing the walls and tile down often enough. If your circulation system is suspect, and many are, brushing down the walls will help eliminate algae problems. Keeping your tile clean will save you money. Once the tile gets calcified it becomes like plaque and will take a specialist to get it off.
  10. Make sure that you keep the space between the bottom of the cantilever on the deck and the top of the tile in check. If this cracks, then put in some silicon. You do not want water migrating from the inside of the pool out under the decking.
  11. Not running pumps long enough. You should run your pump about 1 hour for every 10 degrees of temperature. This assumes you have a decent circulation system. It is ALL about the FLOW! Circulation IS the key to a low maintenance swimming pool.
  12. Not replacing broken or missing drains or suction sources. This a real and dangerous hazard. The same could be said for defective door/gate closers and fences in disrepair.

How to Prevent and Eliminate Algae

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Many pool owners have had to deal with algae problems at one time or another. Algae spores can enter a pool in a variety of different ways, but is most commonly introduced into a pool through wind, rain, dirt, and even on a swimmer’s body or bathing suit. Keeping algae spores out of your pool is tough, so it is important to prevent the microscopic spores from turning into unsightly algae blooms. Maintaining clean, algae-free water will help keep your pool and your family happy and healthy, and cleanmypoolmyself.com is here to help prevent and protect your pool from any algae problems!

Cleanmypoolmyself has compiled a quick and easy-to-read list of tips for preventing and eliminating algae. Click Here for the Full Details!

1. Make sure your circulation system is running properly
DE Filter CleanerA circulation system in good working condition is one of the most important steps to preventing algae growth. To keep your circulation system running properly, you will want to regularly check and clean the skimmer and pump strainer baskets. This will keep the water, as well as the sanitizing chemicals, flowing evenly throughout your pool.

Along with emptying the skimmer and pump strainer baskets, it is also important to routinely clean or backwash your filter. Over time, filters become clogged with dirt and debris, and require some simple maintenance. No matter what type of filter you use, it is necessary to clean your cartridge filter or backwash your sand or D.E. filter whenever the pressure gauge reads 8-10 psi higher than normal. When cleaning or backwashing,

During swimming season, we recommend running your pump and filter between 6 and 8 hours a day, and you can even increase the cycle to between 10 and 12 hours during times of heavy swimmer usage. Routinely checking and cleaning your skimmer, pump, and filter will help keep your pool clean and algae free.

Apollo Floater2. Always keep sanitizer levels at or above the recommended minimum
Algae spores are constantly finding their way into your pool, but are usually killed by the chlorine or other sanitizers before they ever grow into blooms. When the sanitizer levels get too low, however, these spores can quickly grow and begin to cling onto pool surfaces. If you use chlorine to keep your pool sanitized, the level should stay between 2.0 and 4.0 parts per million (ppm). To help maintain a safe and effective level of chlorine in your pool, we recommend using either an automatic or a floating chlorinator. Both automatic and floating chlorinators feed a constant amount of chlorine into your pool, and prevent the chlorine level from dropping below the effective range. If you are using another type of sanitizer, make sure it is also within the desired range.

3. Shock the pool weekly
Power Powder PlusA monthly shock of your pool is great for eliminating any algae spores your regular sanitizer might have missed. Using a shock or a granular chlorine represents a great way to keep your pool clean, your sanitizers at their correct levels, and should help to eliminate any potential algae problems before they grow.
4. Develop and maintain and scheduled brushing routine
Pool walls, floors, and steps are the most common places to find algae in your pool. If left untreated, algae can burrow their roots inside the cracks on these surfaces, making them very difficult to remove. Brush the pool walls, steps, and floor at least once a week (more if necessary) to prevent algae growth from forming in your pool.

5. Find the right brush for your pool
Brushing and scrubbing your pool walls are necessary to preventing algae growth, but the wrong kind of brush can do serious damage to your pool surface. If you own a vinyl-lined, fiberglass, acrylic, or painted pool, you will want to use a nylon brush. These brushes are softer and won’t tear the vinyl or scratch the surface. For plaster or concrete pools, a wire brush will provide superior cleaning strength without harming the pool surface.

Pool BrushesNEVER use a metal wire brush with a vinyl-lined, fiberglass, acrylic, or painted pool. Wire brushes are very abrasive and can cause the pool surface to rip, tear, or scratch. Always use caution and be careful not to apply excessive pressure when using a wire brush, even on plaster pool surfaces.

Kreepy Krauly6. Use a vacuum to remove dirt and debris
Along with brushing and scrubbing, vacuuming your pool is a great way to help prevent algae growth. Brushing the pool walls will dislodge most algae spores that are clinging to the surface, but these spores often simply settle at the bottom of the pool. Using a vacuum, you can eliminate most of the dirt, debris, and contaminants that find their way into your pool.

7. Use an algaecide regularly
Regular use of an algaecide is a great way to help keep algae from ever taking hold in your pool. There are many different types of algaecides available, designed to help fight certain kinds of pool algae. Algaecides are designed to be used when your pool is clean and algae-free, and will stop algae spores from developing into full-on blooms.
Algae Control8. Eliminating phosphates prevents algae growth
Algae, like all plants, are living creatures that require food and nourishment to survive. Phosphates, which can enter your pool through dust, leaves and debris, and swimmer waste such as sweat or oils, act as fertilizer for algae, allowing spores to grow into fully-developed algae blooms. By eliminating phosphates, you can stop the growth of algae before it ever begins.

9. Keep a watchful eye on your pool all year long
The two most important steps in owning an algae-free pool is to maintain a cleaning schedule and to watch for any signs of algae growth. Keeping your maintenance schedule will keep nearly all of the algae spores from developing into blooms, but you should always be watching your pool for any algae that may be growing in hard-to-see areas like on pool steps or ladders. This also means frequent check-ups of your pool even while it is closed for winter. Clean and check your pool regularly and you should have an algae-free pool and happy swimmers!

When the Weather is Cool it’s Time to Winterize Your Pool

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Top tips to prepare your pool for winter

Now that the temperatures have started to fall, it’s time to think about how to best prepare your pool so it survives the winter season and is ready to use when the warmer weather comes around again. If you’d like a free copy of our ultimate guide to cleaning your pool yourself click here.

Why prepare your pool for winter?

It’s important to prepare your pool for the colder weather to prevent problems such as build-up of algae and debris. Depending on where you live, the colder weather can also affect the pool itself and it may end up being damaged by frost (and in some areas snow) if you have not taken adequate precautions.

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How to prepare your pool for winter

There are a number of steps to take in order to ensure your pool is properly winterised. These include:

  • Balance the water: The pool’s pH level needs to be between 7.2 and 7.6. Taking a sample of pool water to your local Swimart store will tell you exactly what the pH is. If the level is not correct, add the appropriate treatment to bring the pool to the correct level
  • Clean the pool! It’s important to brush the walls and floor of the pool and then to vacuum the whole pool thoroughly. Algae thrives in unclean water, so don’t forget to clean the skimmer baskets and the pump’s lint basket of debris
  • Clean the filter: Ensure that the pool’s filter is sparklingly clean, as any grease or oil deposits will harden over winter and make the filter harder to clean in the warmer months, not to mention reducing its overall efficiency
  • Use a shock treatment: It’s recommended to use a regular shock treatment throughout winter. Once you’ve added the shock treatment appropriate for your pool, run both the pump and filter for several hours to ensure it has been well distributed throughout the pool
  • Protect against algae: Use an algaecide that’s appropriate for your pool
  • Check chlorine levels: To keep your pool clean and clear, it’s important to keep your pool’s free available chlorine levels at a constant level of 2-3 PPM (parts per million) at all times during winter. If you’re using a salt chlorinator and a pool blanket, remember to reduce the output of the chlorinator to 1-2 PPM, as pool blankets trap chemicals and chlorine, and can cause high chlorine levels to occur, resulting in damage to pool equipment if not monitored carefully
  • Maintain the pH and Total Alkalinity levels: Total Alkalinity (the measure of the ability of your pool or spa water to resist changes in the pH) is the overseer that keeps the pH of your water where it needs to be.  If your buffering capabilities are too low (low alkalinity), your pH levels can swing drastically from highs to lows
  • Run the filter: The pool’s filter should operate for three to four hours each day. If you’re using a timer, adjust it to suit. Remember if you switch the filter on during off-peak periods, you can save money
  • Cover the pool: This will prevent water loss and also stop debris from entering the pool. Ensure you have a good quality pool blanket or cover
  • Keep up your maintenance schedule: Once you’ve completed your preparation for winter, it’s imperative that you stick to a maintenance schedule even though it’s cold and the pool is not being used. Once a week do a quick visual inspection of your pool and make sure all of your equipment is working properly, check the water level, empty the skimmer basket and check your chlorine and pH levels.

Swimming Pool Backwash

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To backwash Image

  1. Turn OFF the pool pump.
  2. Turn pool control handle to “backwash”
  3. Turn ON the pool pump. Watch for the dirty water to flow until it becomes clear. (Most filters have a clear bubble on the side that allows you to see the water as it flows out of the system)
  4. Turn OFF the pool pump.
  5. turn the handle to rinse
  6. start the pump again for about 10 seconds or until the water in the bubble is clear.
  7. Turn the pump of again.
  8. Return the filter handle back to the filter position.
  9. Start the pump up again
  10. check that the pressure in the gauge has dropped considerably and if it has you once again have a clean filter until the pressure builds up again.

How Does a Swimming Pool Filter Work?

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What are Pool Filters? Image

Pool filters are useful tools in keeping your swimming pool clean and clear from debris. Water containing small particulate matter passes through the filter and comes out the other end cleaner. This cleaner water is not only more pleasant to swim in, but also healthier and more aesthetically pleasing.

How do Pool Filters Work?

  • Pool filters are situated between inflow and outflow hoses going into and out of the pool, respectively. The outflow hose comes out of the pool toward the filter and sucks water out of the pool. This hose is usually placed halfway down the side of the pool, so it an suck water in that is near the middle or bottom of the pool (if it were placed near the top, the water would not circulate properly). When the water flows through the filter, which is usually constructed of some sort of fabric and looks like an air filter of a car, particulate matter is captured. Then this cleaner water flows through the inflow hose back into the pool. This hose pumps water into the pool closer to the surface of the pool than the outflow hose. The two hoses coming into and out of the pool at different heights creates a current, of sorts, that helps circulate the water in the pool, so more of the water gets filtered through.

What are Phosphates in My Swimming Pool?

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Phosphates can increase the likelihood growth of algae in swimming pool water Imageand can enter the water from such sources as: decaying plant matter, fertilizers, mineral treatment chemicals, contaminated well water, acid rain, contamination with soil, ground water runoff, bird droppings, bather wastes, urine and sweat. Phosphate is a vital plant nutrient and the presence in swimming pool water, even at low concentrations, can cause accelerated algae growth in poorly maintained pools. Pools, that are properly maintained, usually do not have unexpected difficulty controlling algae, even in the presence of phosphates. Higher levels of phosphates can make algae control more difficult and increase the amount of sanitizer required to maintain satisfactory control of algae. It is possible to remove modest levels of phosphates, by treating the pool water with a phosphate eliminating product, such as POOL REFRESH. Very high levels may require so much of the precipitating compound, as to render this approach impractical, unless there is no option of water replacement. In order for phosphate reducing products to work the concentration of phosphates must be reduced to extremely low levels: parts per billion. The benefits of such product use is adding another layer of protection against algae growth. Proper pool water maintenance is always the first line of defense. Testing for phosphates is not universal, but in those cases where algae control is proving difficult, despite apparently ideal pool water conditions, testing for phosphates and nitrates might be advantageous.

How to Clean a Pool Myself: Chemical Guide

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Water Balancing Guide for Swimming Pool Image

Chlorine 2.0 – 4.0 PPM

Bromine 2.0 – 4.0 PPM

Stabilizer 40 PPM

PH 7.4 -7.6 (Vinyl 7.6)

Total Alkalinity (TA) Vinyl, fiberglass, painted plaster 80 – 150 PPM

Calcium Hardness Vinyl, fiberglass, painted plaster 200 – 400 PPM

Metals (Iron, copper, manganese) None

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) 1000-2000 PPM